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seems Emiliano Zapata. Big, never speaks, and the enormous mustache give a stern expression. But the smile and 'sweet as a schoolgirl. If he sits all the time, to look beyond the horizon, the dark blue sarong wrapped around his waist like an ancient Javanese warrior, or draped on his back with dignity 'Senate. He watched in silence
while stupendous pair of hornbills and eagles en route. He watched in silence while discussing the case of a group of monkeys. Disapprove? And the 'indifferent? Difficult to infer from that silence, that noble estate '. But today
and 'moved, Emiliano Zapata .. And not 'just moved. He grabbed me by the shoulders and dragged away like a twig. He even spoke, explaining nonsocche 'with excitement. But he has not let go.
And 'one who inspires confidence, Emiliano Zapata, perhaps because of his stubborn silence. I follow him docile along the path, then through fields recently opened. A tree roots still burning, waiting for the crash that tear down '. And I continue to follow him, stumbling over roots, walking on felled logs. I follow him into the forest, where a fallen tree lying in a bed of sawdust. Followed him and do not understand where I do not understand what happens. Every so often around the eyes to his massive body, and he responds with a look of confirmation and reassurance. I just have to follow him. And I follow through the undergrowth or the lianas more and more 'dense, I follow him while the forest is black as night. And
and 'them, black, black shadow that moves swinging. Only then did I understand what's happening. It 'a bear, shake caught in a trap of the hunters. Finished by mistake into the trap set to someone else. Furious and frightened, sinking his fangs in the tree which is tied the rope that binds him. And a trunk e'ora single pile of wood chips around.



the crescent white under the throat that makes her recognizable species, and 'a bear, Malay or sun bear. Moreover there 's a great chance' of error and 'the only bear that lives in Indonesia. But it 's very rare. The IUCN has just entered the red list of threatened species, exposing a population decline of thirty per cent in thirty years.
Thirty percent in thirty years. What percentage is the mass of black hair flapping in fornt of me? From the darkness of the foliage is another figure, like a faun, with a thirty per cent of the shirt on his back, and a twenty per cent of pants to his waist. The rest is dark muscles, tattoos and strings.
Suddenly the language gap becomes a drama. The two now are around the bear with ominous caution. They study the animal at a safe distance, and cut long branches drtitti. I would like to explain to them how much and 'this rare animal, and as' precious. I try to explain with gestures, but how to explain actions that an animal species and 'endangered? And I know that for them, 'a wild animal, a danger to families and children. I imagine the stories told in the evening before the fire, fierce and terrible to bear, the cunning to save themselves from the fearsome predator. Cosi 'terrible and' practically vegetarian. But how to explain? It 'a clash ancient, ancestral, between Man and Beast, made out of fear each other, that does not know at the reasons. The poor beast
shake paws. The long claws leave files furrows in the bark of the surrounding trees.
But what am I doing here among the hunters? I am the wrong person in the wrong place. And at the wrong time. The bear barks like a dog on a string. Around him, 'a battlefield of broken branches, leaves piled up. The words wander aimlessly, without effect. Words are unnecessary, death. Terror common prey and hunters.
E 'evening now. Other shadows materialized among the leaves more and more 'dark. And 'the people of the huts in the area. They all came to bear hunting.
We are now in the final stage. Immobilize the animal with long sticks, with moves precise, cautious, avoiding the bear's claws slashing. Quickly catching strips of bark feet, tie, fasten them to the sticks. It lasts an instant, and the animal and 'tied around the stick. The items remain silent out of my mouth. The bear continues to howl in despair.
Finally I find someone who can translate some length of sentence. Reassures me: no one eats bears here, it 'kills himself for no reason. But the bear threatens families, children, and always returns to the place of the first meeting. So take him far beyond the river, where there will be 'more' a threat.
I feel reassured, but the howling of the animal will not let me. I continue to be in the wrong place. But those of us' in the right place? The bear? The frightened faces of the people around me? No, not 'the place to anyone here.



The fly swings slightly. Ticchetando The rain falls on the roof of leaves, like a diligent typist. The air is warm and oily. Beams and bamboo create a patch of polygon in horizontal and vertical lines, like a Javanese inlay. Through the veil, out of the window the trees sway in the wind like black shadows against a sky growing dark.
The world seems to move lightly, as surfing the waves of light hair. Or maybe 'Remember that fever and delirium in a single plot. Then the thrills give way to a deep sleep and without colors. Huddled in the bottom of the sleeping bag, finally found the right place.